• Flag of Argentina at Perito Moreno Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, Santa Cruz.
• Right, Hand-picked grapes await transport.
• The San Francisco Church in Salta is great example of the well-preserved colonial architecture of the city's central square.
• Malbec grapes

High Society

Tucked protectively along the Andes, Argentina's wine industry rises above expectations. Daenna Van Mulligen reports

ARGENTINA'S ALLURE IS NOT JUST IN ITS SEDUCTIVE TANGO, ITS magnificent Andes Mountain range or the richness of Buenos Aires' culture.

It is a country brimming with possibilities and none, it seems, as apparent as its wine industry. In fact Argentina's cup runneth over.

Argentina has emerged as one of the five top wine-producing nations in the world, but where did that wine unexpectedly spring from - why are we suddenly seeing so much Argentine wine in our market? Argentina has always produced hefty quantities of wine, but that was to feed its own domestic demand. Once its per capita consumption dropped, its producers needed to reach out to the rest of the wine-drinking world - a world which had already been seduced by other New World wine-producing countries such as Australia, Chile and South Africa. In order to compete for consumers' dollars and taste buds, Argentina needed to make some improvements.

And improve they have, with new technology in the wineries, better vineyard management, controlled use of water with drip irrigation (although much is still flood irrigation) and of course the more common use of mesh vineyard netting to protect the wines from Argentina's ever-reliable hail.

And with the encouraging addition of such famous enologists as Paul Hobbs from California and Michel Rolland from France, investment in Argentina has been impressive to say the least. Italy's famous Amarone producer Masi is just one famous name to make its mark in Mendoza's high-altitude Uco Valley appellation of Tupungato. The Chilean houses of Concha y Toro, Montes, Santa Carolina and Santa Rita saw potential from the other side of the Andes and set up shop in their neighbor's cornucopia of vine-friendly terroir. As did Jean Bousquet who literally packed up, sold his South of France estate and vineyards and moved to Argentina to make wine here instead.

There's nothing like having outside investment bring their know-how onto the playing field to improve everyone's game and raise the stakes.

Argentina's three main wine-producing regions lay along the western portion of the country, tucked protectively against the Andes Mountains. North (both the location and the region's name) sits just below Bolivia and is home to the provinces of Salta and Catamarca. Salta holds the bragging rights to the highest altitude vineyards in the world and it is here that the fantastic indigenous, aromatic white varietal Torrontés shines. The central region of Cuyo includes La Rioja, San Juan and the principal wine-producing province in Argentina, Mendoza.

But while the North lays claim to the Argentina's highest vineyards and Cuyo takes credit for the world's attention, Patagonia, in the south, is fast becoming associated with bright, elegant, cool-climate wines. There is great potential for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wines from both provinces of Neuquén and Rio Negro.

And as unabashedly impressed as I was with the quality of the Semillon, the Viognier and the Torrontés I tasted on my recent visit, Argentina is without a doubt a country that is banking on its red varieties.

Argentina, and more specifically Mendoza, has given the world a reason to drink Malbec. From here it is plush and perfumed with dark berries and ripe cherry, chocolate, espresso and spice. Malbec does not assault you; it's soft and pleasing with supple tannins and is entirely easy to pair with pastas in red sauce or the traditional asado - an open flame barbecue used to cook meat and grill vegetables.

But I was unsure if Argentina had a second option for our capricious world when we inevitably grow weary of inexpensive Malbec. They do. So now it's Argentina's job to let the world know that it is not solely about cheap, interchangeable wines, because once the economy gets back on its feet, people will upgrade. Argentina now has the tools and the know-how to grow with consumers. The wines are, across the board, fantastic value for quality (at all price levels), there is diversity in both varieties and styles and there is a movement to focus on appellations - a sense of place. This means that when you purchase a Malbec produced of fruit from Uco Valley's Tupungato you will experience its intensity and length and smell the aromatic floral components in the wine. And when you purchase a Luján de Cuyo Malbec from Agrelo you will recognize its deep red-black colour, full body and spicy flavour.

But what lies beyond Argentina's identity of Malbec? This country boasts a nearly perfect geography and climate - a desert without the mildew or pest problems, which other vineyards around the world face. Argentina's long growing seasons allow for full, worry-free ripening of fruit and its high altitudes supply intense daily sun followed by cool nights. This is a recipe for success.

Although not internationally recognized, Bonarda is the second most planted red grape variety in Argentina. Bonarda is exciting because like Malbec, it's a grape whose identity lies in Argentina. Although its roots are Italian, this fruity, smooth variety seems to be a very good blending grape with Malbec, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are the third and fourth most planted varieties here and although not as easygoing as Malbec, in the right areas they can do very well, producing consumer-friendly wines with recognizable character.

Merlot holds a lot of appeal in Argentina too, as does Tempranillo, with Pinot Noir poised to become more important in cooler regions. And Argentine producers are not afraid to blend. Malbec is more often than not bottled as a single variety but Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, Bonarda and Malbec, Syrah and Malbec as well as Tempranillo and Malbec can be found at almost every winery you visit.

Yes, Argentina is rich in many ways. Their long winemaking history, so much of it derived from their Italian and Spanish heritage, has bred a love of vineyard agriculture and wine drinking. But its warm hospitality and nearly perfect terroir seem to be understated. And that is exactly what wine drinkers around the world need to envision when they raise a glass of Argentine wine; a warm evening dining outdoors, the sound of tango music and the smell of the asado with the stunning Andes Mountains as a backdrop.

I went to Argentina thinking I needed to find out what else, besides Malbec, Argentina could produce to impress me. What I discovered was that some producers were doing everything well, be it Cabernet or Torrontés; the rest are improving as the bar is being raised. That Argentina, from its high, higher and highest altitudes in the North to its icy, windswept Patagonia in the south can produce almost anything it desires.

I left with a firm belief that Malbec is Argentina and it should remain the identity of Argentina because it does not all taste the same. From vineyard to vineyard, appellation-to-appellation Malbec takes on its own personality and stakes its own claim. But this is also where Argentina's challenge lies - in helping the world discover all its personalities.

Savour Argentina

MENDOZA MALBECS

Catena Zapata 2006 Alta Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina $60 This statuesque Malbec is a blend of grapes from four of Catena's best vineyards that sit at elevations between 940 and 1,500 metres above sea level. The fruit is sweet and plush on the nose with plenty of violets, pepper, savoury meat and some grilled herbal notes, which are especially prevalent in higher Mendoza altitudes. It is a full-bodied wine, concentrated and powerful. It is also a very elongated wine with firm, ripe tannins. This is a contender for the cellar. (DVM)

Trivento 2007 Golden Reserve Malbec
Luján de Cuyo, Argentina $25 This is bursting with ripe purple fruit, chocolate, espresso and spiced plums. The palate is plush and expressive - layers of dark berry fruit, spice, decadent chocolate and vanilla. The finish is lengthy. (DVM)

Escorihuela (Don Miguel Gascon) 2008 1884 Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina $16 This is a more subtle version of Malbec that offers a mix of blueberry, dried tobacco leaf and coffee aromas with hints of grilled herbs and mocha. The palate echoes the nose with tobacco leaf and mocha followed by toffee hints and fine white pepper. It is smooth and balanced and lingers with the flavour of espresso. (DVM)

TUPUNGATO

Winery to Watch: Zorzal
This new Canadian-backed winery sits high against the Andes backdrop in Uco Valley's Tupungato. A sampling of the early vintages make it clear that winemaker and co-owner Juan Mitchelini is doing a fantastic job. The Reservas steal the show but you won't see them here for a while although if you are lucky you may find some of the baseline Zorzal wines.

Zorzal 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Tupungato, Argentina $20 This has aromas of pristine white fruits and citrus. On the palate peaches and lemon verbena pop, the acidity is crisp but the wine has a soft roundness to smooth any angular edges. (DVM)

Zorzal 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Tupungato, Argentina $20 Expect rich blackberry and cassis, mineral, spice and roasted bell pepper with cedar-y undertones. The palate is very mineral driven - it has sweet juicy berry fruit on the entry with chocolate hints and a long, smoky, herbal finish. (DVM)

Masi 2007 Passo Doble
Tupungato, Argentina $18 This wine is made on the Argentine estate of this famous Veneto Amarone producer. The Passo Doble translates to two-step in English, which explains its blend of 70 percent Malbec with 30 percent Corvina - the traditional Amarone grape. Masi dries the Corvina grape in the same appasimento way they do in Italy, before fermenting. The wine has complex sweet cherry, chocolate and fruitcake aromas. It is supple on the palate and vaguely earthy with dried fruit, cocoa and espresso flavours - the finish is long and sweet. (DVM)

FROM THE NORTH

Crios di Susana Balboa 2009 Torrontés
Salta, Argentina $19 Made from grapes from the North in Salta where this white aromatic varietal shines. This wine absolutely sparkles with orange blossoms, Muscat-y notes, lemon peel and lychee with dried pineapple. The palate is pristine and juicy, brimming with bright fruit and miner/fleur de sel flavours. Liberal spice and citrus peel linger on the finish. (DVM)

FROM PATAGONIA

Familia Schroeder 2007 Saurus Pinot Noir
Patagonia, Argentina $22 From Argentina's cool-climate southern region this aromatic Pinot Noir shows fragrant floral, red cherry and summer berry aromas with a hint of chocolate and hazelnut. The palate has plenty of sweet, bright fruit, a silky texture and fine firm tannins. (DVM)

GREAT VALUES

Valentin Bianchi Finca 2007 Los Primos Cabernet Sauvignon
Argentina $11 Expect aromas of juicy chocolate cherries, cassis and leathery aromas with a hint of fresh herbs. The palate has sweet supple fruit with hints of mint and cocoa - simple but very tasty. (DVM)

Familia Zuccardi 2009 Santa Julia Viognier
Argentina $12 Familia Zuccardi operates vineyards in Uco Valley and Mendoza. It's enjoyed remarkable success recently with Fuzion, but also produces a number of other labels including Santa Julia. This wine is bright, crisp and a great quaffer. Expect creamy peach, grapefruit and citrus blossom aromas with a hint of warm spice. The palate is fresh and laden with flavours of papaya, peach and citrus - the spice returns on the palate and clings to the finish. (DVM)